Start Here: Southern Lombok

Wave goodbye to the colourful offerings, scent of incense, and people named Wayan as you board the 20 minute flight from Denpasar to Lombok. Land, collect your bags, and find a driver who will take you to Kuta, a town not to be confused with the raucous Kuta Beach on the island you just left.

As you drive away from Praya International Airport, you’ll immediately start to spot the differences between Bali and Lombok. It takes about 25 minutes to get from the airport to the main strip in Kuta, and, if you’ve spent much time in Bali, you’ll delight in the utter lack of traffic. Along the road, you’ll notice that the chiselled stone temples have been replaced by golden-turreted mosques, the wonky gamelan music by the call to prayer, and the traditional sarongs by the Indonesian version of the hijab, the jilbab. While Bali’s dominant religion is Hindu, Lombok is almost entirely Muslim. Finally, take note of the markedly drier climate. The stretch of water between Lombok and Bali is the dividing line – known as the Wallace Line – between the tropical climate of islands like Bali and Java and the more arid climate of Australia and islands like Lombok, Sumbawa, and Sumba.

Lombok’s Kuta is an unassuming hodgepodge of paved and dirt roads just a couple hundred metres from a massive turquoise-blue bay of Indian Ocean. You’ll find a small but growing strip of restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops that should keep you satiated for a few days while you explore the area.

Just like almost everywhere else in the world, the first order of the day here is coffee. Fortunately, Kuta is no slouch in the caffeination department. One of the best places to start your day is at Milk Espresso. Order a flat white or an iced coffee and watch the surfers buzz through town on their way to the waves. If you’re hungry, try the eggs benedict, Smashing Avocado, birthday cake pancakes or one of the colourful smoothie bowls. Milk is also a nighttime hotspot for live music, espresso martinis, and good times.

Down the street from Milk at Kuta’s busiest four way intersection lies another epic cafe called Bush Radio. Here you’ll find things are done by hand, the food is fresh, and the atmosphere hip. Try a slice of their homemade sourdough bread with your coffee or smoothie. Bush Radio’s fresh, vegetable-laden cuisine is a great go-to when you need a break from rice and noodles.

After you’ve fuelled up and are ready to go, it’s adventure time. Hopefully, the departure from the norms of Bali has piqued your cultural interest. Your first stop is Sade, a local Sasak village where you can learn more about Sasak culture. Sade is a bit touristy as its residents sell handicrafts such as ikat (tied) and songket (gold braid) weaving to support themselves, but it is also convenient to Kuta and will give you a taste of traditional life in the area. In the village, you’ll see wooden homes with hand-woven reed roofs and cow dung smeared on the walls and floors, which is said to deter mosquitos and evil spirits. The Sasaks speak their own dialect, Bahasa Indonesian, and often some English so don’t be afraid to have a chat with these friendly people.

After a dose of culture, it’s time to cool off. If you’ve ever thought Bali’s black sand beaches and turbulent waves left something to be desired as far as perfect beaches go, you belong here. You’ll notice a theme throughout this trip: Southern Lombok wrote the book on stunning white sand beaches complete with palm trees and calm crystal clear water.

The most famous of Lombok’s countless coves, bays and breaks is probably Tanjung Ann Beach. Located about a 15 minute scooter or van ride from central Kuta, Tanjung Ann is Instagrammer’s dream and a perfect place to spend an afternoon. Calm aquamarine waves lap the shores making it an ideal swimming beach, although you can surf and kiteboard offshore. Several quaint warungs (small-family operated restaurants) offer basic fare like mie goreng (fried noodles), fresh-cut pineapples, and cold Bintangs. Grab a palm shaded lounge at the Turtle Warung – easily spotted because it’s the only warung on the strip painted bright pink – and pass the day turning the pages of a good book, swimming, and taking photos on one of Tanjung Ann’s overwater swings.

Sunsets are a big deal in Lombok. Locals and expats alike flock to the top of hills, rooftops, boats, and beaches to watch the sun as it goes down each day. Although Tanjung Ann is a perfectly good place to sip a sundowner as the day ends, options abound. Try Seger Beach where you can climb a hill and have uninterrupted views of Kuta Bay, Kuta town, and the Novotel below you. Alternatively, opt to sit on the beach in a bean bag and listen to live music while you get your sunset fix. If you find yourself a little too comfortable at SegerBeach, the boys who manage the bar also put an amazing local style BBQ of the freshest catch of the day, rice, vegetables, and sambal.

For more formal dinner options, return to Kuta. Kuta’sEat Street is chock full of delicious opportunities, but some of the standouts include vegetarian groundbreaker, Bamba. Bamba offers elevated Asian street food in an architecturally tantalising poolside setting. Try the tuna tataki, the lentil balls, and the fish curry. Bamba also does a poolside happy hour a couple of days a week with live DJs and cocktail specials.

If you’re in the mood for something more substantial, El Bazar is a Kuta institution that serves authentic Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine. El Bazar is an open air restaurant with blue walls, lavish gardens, and great vibes that will transport you to Morocco in the middle of Indonesia! Go for their signature lamb tagine, beef kebabs, and mezze platter.

After dinner, you can always go to bed, but you might miss out on Kuta’s quirky but entertaining nightlife. As mentioned previously, Milk Espresso always puts on a good show featuring both local and international musicians at their Happy Hour on Wednesdays and Fridays. Since you’re on vacation, late night socializing is not confined to weekends. Hump day is a particularly big night in Kuta, with the Bus Bar inviting world-renowned DJs to spin into the wee hours of the night each week on Wednesdays.

Further Afield: Go West

The following day, plan your morning based on how badly you need to sweat out the hangover from the night before. Recover with a full body workout or just breakfast at Loka. Loka is dedicated to restoring your health with daily Crossfit, surf fitness, and Muay Thai classes alongside a full service health food cafe. It’s a great place to nurture yourself back to health with a tropical smoothie bowl and a turmeric latte.

You’ll need a good infusion of health for the day ahead. It’s time to go explore the pristine beaches west of Kuta. You must hire a driver or a scooter to reach these spots.

Whether you have never surfed or are an expert waverider, the western beaches are less crowded and offer waves to suit all levels. If you are a beginner, set up a lesson with Mul’s Surf School at SelongBelanak, a picturesque beach with gentle waves and a sand bottom. Passing an entire day at SelongBelanak is possible because the water is warm, the swimming conditions fine, and there’s great food and drinks at upscale LautBiru. Look out for herds of buffalo cruising the beach.

If you’ve been surfing for a while or just want to experience one of Lombok’s most remote and beautiful beaches, you should visit Mawi Beach. Mawi is known by surfers for its easily accessed right and left hand breaks. However, Mawi is equally alluring for non-surfers and beach connoisseurs because of its incredible sand that is shaped like millions of tiny round beach balls and it’s west facing position for sunsets. At Mawi, you’ll likely feel as if you’ve discovered paradise when you sit under the palm-shaded roof of a local warung with an ice cold coconut in hand and watch the surfers perform just offshore.

If you can tear yourself away from Mawi and SelongBelanak, there’s one more must-see beach on your way back to Kuta: Mawun. Mawun is a spectacular horseshoe shaped bay that is sheltered by two headlands making the clear-as-glass-water perfect for swimming. You’ll find Lombok’s ubiquitous white sand, fewer tourists, and a plethora of photo-ops at Mawun.

After a dip in the sea at Mawun, make your way to Ashtari for sunset. Located high up on a hill on the road back into Kuta from the west, Ashtari offers 360 degree views of Kuta Bay and beyond, making it a spectacular spot to end the day. Ashtari has a full cocktail menu and serves both Indonesian and Western food nightly. Come back during the day for one of Ashtari’s five daily yoga classes with a view.

In Lombok, Remember Why You Travel

We travel because we want to experience something different from our everyday lives. Sometimes this requires adjusting your expectations and diving headlong into uncharted territory. New places, new faces, and new experiences await those who ditch preconceived notions of what should or shouldn’t be in favour of an open mind. Lombok is an easily accessed and highly enjoyable introduction to the rest of Indonesia. Leave Bali in Bali and be rewarded with spectacular beaches, great food, and jaw-dropping sunsets on the south coast of your new favourite Indonesian island.

Southern Lombok Accommodation

Rascals Kuta Lombok: Perfectly poised in the backblocks of Kuta, lies this adult-only haven with uber cool decor, lux spa, and brand new restaurant.

Origin Lombok: Origin Lombok is a full service luxury hotel located just a short ride from downtown Kuta, Tanjung Ann, and all Southern Lombok has to offer. www.originlombok.com

Villa Bliss: If you’re travelling with the family or a group of friends, why not rent this exclusive private villa complete with a chef in the hills above Kuta? Villa Bliss is part of Origin Lombok, so you can use their facilities and restaurants as well. www.villablisslombok.com

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© This article was first published in Aug-Sept 2019 edition of World Travel Magazine.

The inhospitable desert sits in juxtaposition to life thriving despite the odds: sparkling turquoise bays full of marine life, towering brilliant green cacti, and hidden oases of palm trees. Deep dark storm clouds pour buckets of rain over otherwise barren terrain and brilliant yellow wildflowers pop up across the desert. In small towns, friendly locals lift the veil of poverty to share the songs of the mariachis and a taste of tequila. An oppressive and impassable border creates an atmosphere for a culinary revolution.

Travelling in Baja is 100% about the journey rather than the destination. Throughout a trip to Mexico’s northern and westernmost state, you come to expect the unexpected. Unforeseen bounty hides in what appears to be the scarcest of circumstances. From the border town of Tijuana to “Cabo,” or the land’s end, Baja’s magic is waiting for the discerning traveller to come and find it.

Tijuana: Despite the Wall, Life Flourishes

Whether you walk or drive across, For most visitors, a journey to the Northern half of Baja California begins at one of the busiest and most fortified borders in the world. The wall between America and Mexico looms larger than life despite covering an expanse of land not much wider than a fútbol field. On the Mexican side, you instantly know you’re in another country by the sight of colourful hand-painted signs, the smell of street tacos, and the voices of men in cowboy hats offering unsolicited taxis.

You’re officially in Tijuana, or “TJ” for short, a place that has had a reputation for being a full-strength, no-holds-barred adult Disneyland ever since filling a need during prohibition. Today, Tijuana’s main drag, Avenida Revolución, is much safer and G-rated than in the past. Yet, the “no rules” attitude that has attracted so many Americans over the years lives on amongst Baja chefs and restaurateurs.

Take Javier Plascencia, for example. His upscale flagship restaurant, Mision 19, arrived in TJ at a time when no one was doing fine dining in the city. He took the rule book and threw it out the window by occupying a modern office building in a part of the city away from the main tourist haunts. With avant-garde art and in-your-face yet sophisticated dishes like beef tongue with blood-sausage vinaigrette and sea urchin soup with poblano chillies, Mission 19 feels more New York than Tijuana.

For most, Tijuana is where you come for taco stands and hole-in-the-wall joints featuring Mexican dishes like birria (spicy goat stew), carnitas, and Baja fish tacos. These days, it’s not only Baja food you’ll find on the street.  TJ has become a melting pot of all the people who get stuck there in their quest for the American dream. Rules may stop them from crossing the border, but Tijuana eschews convention. That’s why you’re headed to Telefonica for lunch. Places like Telefonica, a gastro-park, and Plaza Fiesta, a craft beer garden, are so popular because they don’t follow the rules. A Mex-inspired ramen truck saddles up next to a taco stand selling cauliflower mole. Anything goes and it all tastes amazing.

The Valle De Guadalupe: Sophistication, Mexico Style

From Tijuana, head out west and make your way down the coast. You can make out tiny surfers in the ocean as you pass a giant statue of Jesus Christ with welcoming, outstretched arms. He seems to say, ‘Bienvenidos a Baja,’ (welcome to Baja) to all who drive by.

Eventually you turn inland towards the Valle de Guadalupe, the very valley where Spanish friars made the first Mexican wine in the 18th century. In order to do Baja Ruta de Vino (wine route) properly, you should check into your hotel early and hire a driver for the day.

After you’ve settled into your eco-loft at Encuentro Guadalupe, gather the troops and head off for a day of wine tasting in the Valle. As far as the eye can see, the dusty terrain is punctuated by vineyards, dirt roads, and simple signage indicating that somewhere off in the distance there’s wine and food. Although you’re a half an hour from ocean, your driver tells you to look for boats. The best kind of boats; boats filled with wine.

The winemaking and tasting facilities at Vena Cava are constructed entirely from repurposed fishing boats and recycled materials. Inside the cool and cavernous upturned fishing boats, you taste the region’s finest wines starting with a crisp and slightly salty Sauvignon Blanc and moving through Vena Cava’s collection until you taste a show-stopping, full-bodied Tempranillo.

Before the warmth of the Tempranillo sets in, it’s time to get moving to your next stop: Finca La Carrodilla. Once again, you bump down a long unassuming dirt road to an architecturally breathtaking winery hidden in the desert. On the rooftop terrace at Finca La Carrodilla, sweeping views of the mountains and vineyards command your attention. But you must save some focus for the wines and locally made cheese.

Finca La Carrodilla is one of the only wineries in the Valle that uses sustainable and ecological agriculture practices. Luckily René, the winery’s chief entertainer, is your server. While he explains that the Syrah is 100% organic, you enjoy the cheese made at Finca la Carrodilla from the milk of the grass-fed cows who live on the property.

After a short tour of the production area where the grapes are de-stemmed, crushed into giant stainless steel tanks, and fermented without the use of electricity or machinery, you’re ready for the next course: a sunset dinner at Tras Lomita. Tras Lomita is an ethereal outdoor kitchen and dining area surrounded by vineyards. To reach the restaurant, you must trod the earth between the trellised grapevines that once produced the wine served at the restaurant. At your table, you revel in the casually elegant ambience. It’s easy to understand why this is a place where both Mexicans and foreigners linger over dishes like lamb taquitos with mole sauce, BBQ octopus, and raw prawns cooked in black sauce called aguachile for hours. The wine does nothing but cause you to stay longer. Briny, earthy wines pair impeccably with the seafood that has made Baja so famous.

It’s been a long day when you retire to Encuentro Guadalupe. You are grateful for a comfortable bed and sweeping views of the stars in the sky.

The Sea of Cortez: Where the Desert Meets the Sparkling Sea

Onward. After you’ve recuperated from all the wine, it’s time to fly from Tijuana to La Paz. Despite the hustle and bustle of the U.S. border, Baja is still one of the most sparsely populated states in Mexico and nowhere more so than on the coast of the Sea of Cortez. North of La Paz lies countless kilometres of empty coastline only occasionally interrupted by tiny fishing towns, a couple of gringos, or a resort. The lack of action is made up for in the water.

Dubbed, “the aquarium of the world” by Jacques Cousteau, the biodiversity of the Sea Cortez is unparalleled. Its waters are home to no less than 30 different species of dolphins and whales, the greatest variety of these species found anywhere on planet earth. Regardless of which form of aquatic transport you chose Ð paddleboard, kayak, National Geographic cruise, fishing boat or private yacht Ð you will suddenly be surrounded by sea life. But the real reason you’re here is to see the “gentle giants” of the Sea Cortez. During the winter, you can join Cabo Expeditions for a swim alongside the whale sharks who can grow over 12 meters long and weigh over 21,000 kilos.

After your close encounter with the life aquatic, it’s time to head south towards Cabo San Lucas. It’s worth taking the scenic route to Cabo to explore the coastline that meanders along from La Paz to San Jose. The salty Sea of Cortez alternates shades of aquamarine, emerald green and deep dark navy. Quaint fishing villages seem sleepy during the hot midday sun. At one beach you stop for a swim and meet a friendly fisherman selling clams that are eaten out of the shell while they are still alive. Each picturesque beach you pass has the whitest sand and most glittering blue-green water you’ve ever seen until you arrive in San José.

Cabo: The Land’s End

If wet t-shirt contests, boisterous Americans taking tequila shots, and an endless Spring Break atmosphere aren’t your thing, you could write off the whole of Cabo as a glossy, glitzy nightmare. Yet, in true Baja style, those willing to explore are bound to find hidden gems way worth getting your rental car dusty. Beyond the dance clubs, chain restaurants, and mega resorts of Cabo San Lucas are two lesser-known towns that will easily win your heart. So don’t get caught at a timeshare presentation, there’s too much magic at the end of the finger to waste any time.

San José del Cabo: The Classy Sibling

Authenticity, sophistication, and charm are just three of the traits San José del Cabo holds over its twin sibling, Cabo San Lucas. Start by cruising the cobblestone streets full of artisan boutiques, colourful galleries, and delectable restaurants. On Thursday evenings from November to June, it’s an official pastime to check out the San José Art Walk.

When compared to the MTV-style party-hard scene you’d find on the beaches in Cabo San Lucas, San José’s beaches may seem like ghost towns. Retreat to the Cabo Surf Hotel, just out of town, where you can learn to surf or stand up paddle in the gentle waves at the surf spot “Old Man’s” with the Mike Doyle Surf School. More experienced surfers or non-surfers looking for even quieter beaches should take a day trip to Shipwrecks, a desolate but beautiful beach about 40 minutes to the east of San José.

Once sufficiently hungry from surfing or beach-combing, head to Flora Farms, a farm-to-table restaurant set amongst a verdant sanctuary of palms, tropical fruit trees, and lush farmland hidden in the outskirts of town. When you arrive, take a self-guided tour of the exquisite grounds, order a carrot margarita and get ready to chow down on one of the best meals of your life. Being in Baja, the catch of the day is always outstanding but be sure to ample some of the goods from the ranch – raised-onsite pork shoulder, chicharrón and charcuterie boards.

Todos Santos: Magic Town

On the other side of the Baja Peninsula, the Pacific Ocean crashes on the beaches near the bohemian hamlets of Todos Santos, Cerritos and Pescadero. The three tiny towns are prized by artists, surfers, farmers, locals and expats as places to escape from the hustle and bustle of Cabo. These days a paved toll road makes the journey from San José over the Sierra de La Laguna foothills a breeze but don’t tell the masses.

Everyone agrees there is a certain magic about Todos Santos including the Mexican government. In 2006, it designated the town as a “Pueblo Mágico,” a title given to a select few Mexican towns because of their cultural, natural and/or historical significance. You’ll feel the town’s spell as you stroll the cobblestone streets looking for handmade curiosities in the tiny shops or admiring the refurbished haciendas.

Stay at Hotel San Cristóbal, located about 15 minutes south of Todos Santos, which has captured that magic and bundled it up into an undeniably cool luxury hotel. After you check in, don your custom kimono and head to the turquoise tiled pool for a mescal margarita. Enjoy yourself and be sure to spend some time star gazing before you go to bed, early. The day starts at dawn in Baja because of the heat and you’ll want to make the most of your time in this enchanting place.

Getting caught up in the almost mystical magic of Baja happens quickly. The contrast of this ridiculously rough, hot, hard place with the peninsula’s natural beauty and resourceful people will cause your expectations to be exceeded at every turn. Soon you’ll find yourself exploring further and worrying less knowing that Baja always delivers.

Places to Stay

Pendry San Diego,  pendryhotels.com/san-diego/ 550 J St, San Diego, CA 92101, USA. (Just 25 minutes from the border, the Pendry is a great place to stay the night before you begin your trip to Mexico.)

Encuentro Guadalupe, grupoencuentro.com.mx/ Km. 75, CarreteraTecate- Ensenada, Valle de Guadalupe, 22750 Ensenada, B.C., Mexico

Hotel San Cristóbal, sancristobalbaja.com/ Carretera Federal 19, Todos Santos, B.C.S., Mexico

Cabo Surf Hotel, cabosurf.com/  Carr. Transpeninsular Km 28, Tourist Corridor, 23400 San José del Cabo, B.C.S., Mexico

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© This article was first published in Oct-Nov 2018 edition of World Travel Magazine.

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are part of India, extending east towards Myanmar and south towards Indonesia’s Sumatra. After inhaling the colonial architecture and rustic street life in the capital Port Blair the eyes of many travellers might get fixed at what’s beneath the surface.

Join a private diving tour, and the azure gates of the boundless ocean open up to you, with a wide array of sea inhabitants circling around. This region is the scuba diving capital of India. Float with majestic sea turtles, and roam around with white tip sharks, surrounded by vivid corals and large schools of snappers. Don’t forget to cross the fingers for an encounter with eagle rays and manta rays, gentle giants that elegantly play with the current.

Scubalov offers dives accompanied by a marine biologist, who points out the aquatic animals and corals, and their individual tasks in keeping the ocean running like a Swiss watch. They offer wondrous day trips to remote Barren Island as well. Be prepared for stunned senses during three dives, for dolphins, manta rays, and gigantic turtles are Barren Islands’ permanent citizens.

A relaxing dinner cruise

A horizon scattered with palm tree silhouettes, acrobatic dolphins and perfectly painted sunsets. These graces will be put upon you after boarding Bella Bay, a magnificent vessel that can be chartered for gorgeous dinner cruises and cocktail parties when the orange sun drops down the ocean’s facet.

Enjoy the breezy outdoor seating area with its teak wood decking on board of Bella Bay, or stay in the relaxing indoor lounges where the nostrils will be indulged by culinary thrills. The experienced chefs are all-around kitchen masters, specialising in toothsome Indian and Oriental buffet dinners. Views of Ross Island, satisfying cocktails and the aromatic artworks from the floating kitchen will make you leave a piece of your heart in the Andaman and Nicobar enclave.

Island-hopping

In the Andaman and Nicobar Islands shallow turquoise water, silky white sandbars and picturesque lighthouses are sprinkled along the coastline. The underwater world caters to superb diving. Mysterious mangrove forests add to the magic of the archipelago, making this remote region an island-hopping bliss.

Sailing yachts and boats can be rented in the harbour of Port Blair, the region’s capital. Tours can be tailor-made, with oxygen, snorkelling masks, kayaks and a personal chef on board to meet all your sailorman’s  wishes.

Anchor between Ross and Smith Islands, where Sandbar Beach is a pictorial paradise, and the surrounding lush hills beg to be explored. Sooner or later you’ll wash up on Havelock Island, dotted with eye-popping beaches and a leafy interior.

Ross and Smith island are connected by a white sand bar that reveals itself during low tide.

Besides a flawless coastline, Havelock Island is the hot spot to get your wetsuit, grab a regulator and drift amidst fascinating sea creatures and corals. The East Island Lighthouse is excellent for sunsets, while you can relax at the foot of this multicoloured guardian of the sea.

Surrender to a perfect massage

After cruising the sun-kissed skin and sandy feet deserve an aromatic pick-me-up, for example at Silver Sand Hotels & Resorts. For a fragrant treat, one can revel in an Ayurvedic full body massage with therapeutic oils, a foot massage with herbal oils or detoxify the body in 2 hours with a body polishing of your dreams.

Barefoot at Havelock Island specialises in massages, with the oma – ‘life giver’ in Sanskrit – being their signature appeasing method. A divine blend of nourishing oils and coffee extract energises the body and provides antioxidants. The scent of lavender and geranium oil makes you drift away to outer space during a healing hot stone session, that chases away muscle pain and stiffness. Body scrubs and body wraps will make you leave the atolls younger than upon arrival.

A lush resort

Fancy a pool, a verdant garden and a salty sea breeze running through your hair? Taj Exotica Resort & Spa raises the bar for comfortable resorts. The villas in this resort are mostly made of wood, making them blend in with the surrounding trees. The Grand Luxury Pool Villa can host 6 people and has a private pool with deck-chairs and views of the fabulous Radhanagar Beach.

In case you feel urged to burn the food and cocktail calories you inevitably take in on the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Taj Exotica Resort & Spa has a gym. Slower pace sports such a billiard and mini-golf can be enjoyed on site. From the resort, it’s an effortless stroll to the beachfront, where turtles might be laying their eggs. It’s a symbol of travelling the Andaman and Nicobar Islands; comfort, class and captivating nature go hand in hand. 

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© This article was first published online in Feb 2019 – World Travel Magazine.